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Monday 9 Oct, 2006

This steakhouse is the closest London gets to Argentina.
by Rebecca Dalzell.
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The Venue
Broadway Market is becoming increasingly gentrified. Teaming with restaurants, this Argentinian steakhouse is at the centre of its success. The area may still look a bit dingy, but the light from Santa Maria del Buen Ayre beckons warmly, and with its wooden floors and tables, black and white photographs on the wall, and a small central open kitchen, the restaurant is cosy and buzzing.

The Atmosphere
Strong word of mouth recommendations draw carnivores in from around the city. Diners range from grizzled solicitors to local artists and pack the small restaurant to the rafters every night. Casual and convivial, the chatty South American waiters visibly glow under the praise diners heap on the meals they serve.

The Food
A range of cuts and sizes of Argentinian steaks rule the menu, which is modelled on a traditional parilla. The beef is rich and tender, and is served with a roasted pepper and chimicurri, a simple garlic and herb sauce. The entire menu is consistently good and the prices reasonable coming in at around £8 for an 8oz steak, for instance. Chicken empanadas are moist and subtly flavoured, exactly as they are in Argentina and the flan with dulce de leche is a luxurious finish.

The Drink
The solid wine list focuses on New World wines and unsurprisingly the majority are from Argentina. With the house wine around £10 a bottle, it makes little sense to order by the glass. The only suitable end to such a traditional meal is a cup of mate, Argentina’s national tea.

The Last Word
Santa Maria del Buen Ayre is well worth a trip to Hackney. Excellent food, a fun atmosphere, and steak for less than a tenner all make for a good night out.

Email: info@buenayre.co.uk - Tel. 020 7275 9900